Exquisite linens a collector's journal


Crash is a single cloth fabric, composed of all-cotton yarns, or of cotton and jute. It is used principally for toweling and as a covering for fine carpets. In some of the southern states it is made with a plain weave, and worn as a summer men's wear fabric, as it is cheaper than linen. It is usually made of l-14s, l-16s, 1-20s cotton warp aifd filling, and sometimes of l-10s and l-12s cotton. As a carpet covering, it is woven in a narrow loom, and has either broad oi narrow stripes in the warp, of fancy colored dyed yarns, dark red and dark blue being common colors. The ground of the cloth is made of cotton yarns in the gray, or unbleached state. This fabric has the APPEARANCE OF LINEN. due to the heavy sizing, and calendering in finishing. Small warp effect twill weaves are used, such as 2—1, either right or left hand, and running at 45 degrees. l-16s cotton warp and filling crash toweling is made of yarns both in the gray and bleached state, generally about l-14s cotton warp and filling, in widths varying from 15 inches to 24 inches finished, either all bleached or with side and cross borders, or in what is known as HAIR-LINE PLAIDS. Rarely any colors, excepting red or navy blue, are used in toweling
THE SAME WEAVES are used in this line as in ordinary linens, namely, the plain weave or 1 up and 1 down, in the commoner grades. But for bathing purposes, where a rough toweling is sometimes required, there is the bird's-eye or huckaback weave—also the eight-end honeycomb weave. Toweling, having as a design floral or Bcroll figures, Is made on narrow looms, having a jac-quard machine attached; this sort Is used for bureau scarfs. Crash can be WOVEN ON ANY POWER LOOM. The kind of loom necessary to produce any certain grade of crash is governed by the construction of weave effect desired, as, for instance, either the plain weave or twill weave effects are best adapted to the roller or cam loom; the more complicated fancy weaves, such as huckaback and honeycomb, necessitate the use of a dabby loom. TO FINISH CRASH, it is first run through a sprinkler, to dampen It; then it is put through the size tub and rather heavily sized, after whidh it is run through a dryer.

From the dryer it goes to the calenders, in which machine the gas-heated top roller acts upon the sizing and produces the rather glazed effect on the face of the cloth. Crash towelling using huckaback weave: reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 18 inches wide; l-16s cotton warp and filling (bleach); 46 picks of filling; finish 1<% inches; weight, 1.85 ounces. To make a softer feel, use one-half number of picks and wind l-16s and 1-20s (1 end of each) on same bobbin, and weave it in; this also increases the mottled effect. Crash toweling using honeycomb weave; reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 20 inches wide; 2-20s cotton warp and Ailing (bleach); 44 picks of filling; loom width, 16 ounces; no finish; weight, 314 ounces. Use dobby loom for each of these fabrics.

In making honeycomib toweling, if using a cross border, the Crompton double cylinder or two-weave dobby is the most convenient, as the border weave and the body weave each has its separate harness chain, and is worked from the box chain.