One of the strenght of Lyon: the birth of multi-talented designer entrepreneurs.
The combination of artistic and technical creativity is probably the main cause that made Lyon one of the world capital of the silk industry in the 18th century.
In 1759 there were 55 fabric designers, 80 in 1790. Many worked anonymously and their names were forgotten. Few information is available except for those who were at the same time painter, entrepreneur or technician such as Bony, Revel, Dugourc and Lasalle.
Philippe de Lasalle designed
The Cleveland Museum of Art
Jean Revel ( 1684-1751) produced a number of chinoiserie silk design in early Rococo style from the mid-1750s.
Pierre Ringuet (1698-1771) was the son of a master carpenter and architect who worked free lance for different workshops. He would have been the first one to introduce natural flowers in the fabric design in Lyon.
Courtois, Quoted by Nicolas Joubert de l'Hiberderie as the fisrt one to introduce shaded tones.
Joubert de l'Hiberderie ( Paris 1715- Lyon 1770) . Worked for Pernon as a chief designer. He wrote Le dessinateur pour les etoffes d'or, d'argent et de soie", Paris, 1765.
Jacques Charles Dutillieu (1718-1781)
Jean Pillement (1728-1808) Born in Lyon he had a very cosmopolitan carier. He was a paineter and designer known for his landscape and chinoiseries in the Rococo style. He engraved fanciful chinoiserie design that were drawn upon by other tetxile designers in his One hundred and thirty figures and ornaments and some flowers in the Chinese style, London 1767 . His design were used by English cotton printers and by Oberkampt factory at Jouy.
Philippe de Lasalle (1723-1804) was one of the most successful designer-manufacturer-inventor in the world-renowned silk manufacturing centre of Lyons during the ancien régime.
Joseph Bourne (1740-1808). Flower painer and textile designer.
Joseph Gaspard Picard (1748-1818) was born in Louhans in 1748. He was higly esteemed in several Europeans countries, especially in England. One of his designs is exhibited at The Boston Museum of Arts.
Pierre Toussaint Dechazelle (1752-1835), ( see Lyon School of Flower Painting, Elisabeth Hardouin-Fugier) . He worked for Maison Guyot et Germain before the French revolution. He was a student of the painter Donat Nonotte and the founder of a silk workshop that passed through many hands, eventually to become the renowned Manufacture Prelle
Antoine Berjon (1754-1843). Flower Painter and designer. He was a teatcher of flower design at the Lyon Ecole des Beaux-Arts. from 1810 to 1823.
The silk industry of the 19th century produced much less creativity in its designs.
Jean Pierre Seguin
Simon Saint Jean (1808-1860) : studied at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Lyon with flowers painters Augustin Thierriat and Francois Lepage. Worked for Didier- Petit.
Jean Etienne Grand. One of the two brothers of Maison " Grand Fréres" . He was a painter and a textile designer.
Descendant of the well-known Silk Producer he was the chief designer of Lamy- Giraud in 1880. Well known for his style Louis XVI .
In the first half of the 20th century famous artists such as Sonia Delaunay, Raoul Dufy , Paul Iribe, Charles Martin, Robert Bonfils, Paul Mansouroff, George Barbier, E A Seguy, Benedictus, Karbowsky, Clarinval, Henri Gillet and Michel Dubost designed fabrics for the Lyon silk industry.
Raoul Dufy: Nature Morte aux Fruits
Famous Lyon silk manufacturers ( Next Page)
E. Leroudier, ‘Les dessinateurs et la soierie lyonnaise au XVIIIe siècle’, Revue d'Histoire de Lyons, 1908,
A. M. Wiederkehr, ‘Le dessinateur pour les étoffes d'or, d'argent et de soie’, doctorat, Université de Lyons II, 1981
Histoire de la rubanerie et des industries de la soie à Saint-Étienne, 1906 Louis Joseph Gras
Nicolas Joubert de l'Hiberderie : Le dessinateur pour les etoffes d'or, d'argent et de soie", Paris, 1765.
Places to Visit:
Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs, Lyon : They house more than two million of pieces of fabric. Unfortunately very few are exposed: a very conservative thread runs through Lyonnais culture as can be witnessed by the scarcity of fabric displayed by the museum for fear of being copied. Excellent Library opened every afternoon from Tuesday to Friday.
The Cleveland Museum of Art : large collection of French silk fabric of the 18th century, several designed by Philipe de Lasalle. Many pieces can be viewed on the Museum internet site at http://www.clevelandart.org/